Elsa Schiaparelli. May I just say what an honor it is to have the opportunity to sit and interview you. You go Schiap Correct.
Why thank you very much. It is and honor to share my story. And yes I go by Schiap.
Schiap lets begin by talking about your beginning. Tell me about your family and where you grew up.
I was born in Rome, Italy in 1890 a nice place. My mother was an aristocrat and my father was a scholar. I was considered a difficult child. When I was young I loved to play mischievous prank and cause trouble. Personal freedom has always been a priority for me even as a young child. I think it what mead so mischievous. It helps me express myself. Now I do that through my designs.
When I was 19 I started a course in Philosophy at the University of Rome. I enjoyed the course immensely. A few year later I published a book of peoms about sorrow, love, sensuality and mysticism. My traditional family didn't approve of the writing so they sent me off to a convent. Being the rebellious child I was I was removed after going on a hunger strike.
What events sparked your interest in fashion design?
Well on a journey to London I was visiting a friend in Paris and she invited me to a ball. I remember that event sparking my love of fashion. I was interested in fashion and tried to get jobs in Paris fashion houses. Eventually I had some luck. I designed a black jumper with a knitted white bow motif at the neck. It became popular and was even shown in Vogue magazine.
I began making my own clothes. With some encouragement from Paul Poiret, and after spending some time in his couture house, I started my own business. I was so inspired of what designers like Paul were able to create I had to try to do it myself.
What role did mentors play in helping you develop the interests and talents you have as a designer?
My uncle and I were very close. He guided me and helped me greatly. His name was Giovani. He was a famous astronomer. He recognized my intellectual curiosity when no one else in my family did. He and I had similar interest and we bonded over that.
Another one of my mentors was Paul Poiret. He is an inspiring fashion designer and the reason I opened my own business in the first place. Once I went to a fitting with a friend to Paul Poriet and he let me barrow some of his designs. I was enchanted by the luxury, quality, design, colors, materials, embroidery and shapes of the couture house. It inspired me to make my own clothing.
In the late 1800's the tone of fashions set by women of super class because they had money and reason to pursue fashion but that began to change. The formal, full dress style did not suit all women. Especially those who led a more active life. By the 1900's things had changed. There were designs being made based on mens suits. Corsets were beginning to disappear. Skirt became shorter and waist were low and unstructured.
I contributed to all this change. My first collection was a line of sweaters. I loved the idea of comfort and practicality. I never liked the simplistic plain color pallet. I prefer bold bright colors. Like a magenta pink. Known as Schiaparelli pink. My designs for patterns on dresses as well as dresses themselves were quite different from the typical designers of my time.
I contributed to all this change. My first collection was a line of sweaters. I loved the idea of comfort and practicality. I never liked the simplistic plain color pallet. I prefer bold bright colors. Like a magenta pink. Known as Schiaparelli pink. My designs for patterns on dresses as well as dresses themselves were quite different from the typical designers of my time.
Many thing influenced me as well as impacted my work as a designer. The second World War greatly impacted the fashion industry. Many couture houses were shut down. because of the war. Equality for women was another thing that greatly impacted fashion. Women's clothing began to resemble mens clothing more and more. I know for creating shoulder pads in women's clothing and creating the first tuxedo dress.
I was particularly influenced by Surrealists like the famous painter Salvador Dalí. Their artwork was new, innovative and above all inspiring. Many of my designs were based off their work. One of my most famous dresses, the lobster dress, was a collaboration with Salvador Dalí.
What were your major accomplishments and methods you used in your art?
I created many designs based off Salvador Dalí and other surrealists painters. Like the lobster dress. I am one of the first designers to sportswear lines. And am famous for my favorite color a magenta pink. Now called Schiaparelli pink. I was one of the first designer to develop the wrap dress and was the first female fashion designer to be featured on the cover of the American magazine Time in 1934.
My cloths were inspired by everyday objects and by fun and different art work. I believe fashion is just as much about making cloths as it is about making art.
What where the key opportunities you had that led to turning points in your life and art?
Mostly opportunities to work with fabulous designers and artist. Paul Poiret help me star my own couture house. Without him there would be no Elsa Schiaparelli couture clothing. I watched what he did. I watched his designs come to life. He inspired me to create clothing and for that I am eternally grateful.
I believe fashion design and art are very very closely related. So when I got the opportunities to work such fabulous artist to create marvelous designs I was over joyed. I especially loved the Surrealists. One of my closest friends, Salvador Dalí a Surrealists, helped me design some of my most famous gowns. He helped me design everything from fabric to perfume bottles.
What were some hardships you had to overcome in order to be a designer?
One hardship was the competition in the fashion industry. My greatest rival was Coco Channel. She was quite something. Are stiles were very different but we still shared the same love of fashion. I also had the hardship of the second world war. It was a hard time for my my business. We struggled because of the war and I know we weren't the only ones.
Eventually the fashion industry was different. I released that the world of Couture had changed. I decided to close my House and devote myself to my autobiography Shocking Life. I will still always remember the fashion world and I still love it very much but I have moved on and that ok.
What personal stories best illustrates how you became successful in fashion design?
Once when I attended a high society ball I created my own gown. I had nothing to wear so I draped fabrics around my body to create a dress of my design. I put pins in the dress to hold all together. During some of the especially lively dance to pins began to fall to the dance floor. The thought of that night still makes me laugh.
How did your work impact the world of fashion design?
I used new colors, like the color shocking pink, and new shapes that other designers had never used. My designs were clever and surreal. My accessories were different and never seen before. I think that I opened up the fashion industries eyes with my creativity and I hope other continue to do so.
Schiap thank you so much for your time.
It was my pleasure.
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